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BEAN THERE: Broad Beans slow cooked with tomato and cumin, olive oil and lemon. Fairfax

Dishing it out on broad beans

I'm glad spring is here because I rejoice in the tender young green vegetables now at the market - asparagus, artichokes, peas and my favourite spring ingredient, broad beans. Their bright green is a promise that winter has ended.

With the change in season, our cooking also begins to change. Happily, I have put away my casserole dish, as roasts, stews and root vegetables give way to lighter dishes.

Now I look forward to eating green things with grilled things such as barbecued chicken smothered in crushed broad beans with garlic and lemon juice.

I love broad beans just-cooked and covered in butter and sea salt. Toss them with linguine, lemon zest and peppery extra virgin olive oil. Or, ultra simple, cooked and shelled with chunks of salty pecorino.

I quite enjoy the ritual of podding broad beans, but I'm less fond of twice-podding them. In my early days as an apprentice I used to have to double-pod endless kilos of broad beans for the spring menu - I considered it a form of torture.

So I was relieved when an Italian cook showed me a lovely dish using podded broad beans still in in their individual coverings, braised with artichokes and peas.

If the beans are young and small they are beautiful still in their little skins. I even like the slight bitterness. But once they get a bit larger and older, I definitely recommend shelling and double-podding your beans to appreciate their delicate sweetness.

Remove the beans from their long, furry casings. Next, boil them in salted water for a few minutes until just-cooked (the time depends on their size, but be careful not to overcook them - they are easily ruined), refresh in cold running water and drain. Then pierce the skin on each bean with your thumb nail and pop them out.

Broad beans have a short season; they start appearing at the market in late winter but I recommend waiting until early spring when they're at their best.

They're delicate and don't last long so don't let them hang around in your fridge crisper. It's best to buy, cook and eat them quickly. They do freeze quite well - you can pod and freeze them raw, then cook them normally.

When buying broad beans look for firm, green pods and avoid flimsy, spotted ones.

Soft broad beans cooked with tomato and cumin

INGREDIENTS
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, sliced
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp paprika
1kg broad beans, podded
1 cup crushed tinned tomatoes or two ripe fresh tomatoes, chopped
½ cup water
salt and pepper
juice of 1 lemon
3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
extra virgin olive oil, to finish

METHOD

In a heavy based pan, cook the onion and garlic in olive oil until pale and soft.

Add the spices and cook for a minute before adding the broad beans, tomatoes, water and salt and pepper.

Cover with a lid and cook very gently for 10-15 minutes or until the beans are just soft.

Add the lemon juice, coriander leaves and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and cook a further 5 minutes.

Serve warm as an accompaniment to meat, or at room temperature as a spread for crusty white bread.

Broad beans, artichokes and mint

An Italian cook showed me this recipe and I have seen many variations in Italian cookbooks. It's a spring casserole - a beautiful combination that makes a fine accompaniment to hot or cold poultry or fish.

INGREDIENTS
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, sliced
1kg broad beans, podded
4 globe artichokes, peeled, cored and cut in quarters
500g peas, podded
50g pancetta or 3 slices prosciutto (optional), finely chopped
juice of half a lemon
salt
1/3 cup mint leaves

METHOD

In a heavy based pan, heat a little olive oil and add the onion and garlic. Cook gently until soft and golden.

Add the prepared broad beans, artichokes, peas and pancetta, and stir for a few minutes, then add the lemon juice and a splash of water.

Season with salt, cover with a lid and cook over a gentle heat, adding a little more water if necessary, until just soft. The time will depend on the size of the artichokes and beans, but they are ready when easily pierced with a knife.

Allow to rest for a few minutes. Drizzle liberally with extra virgin olive oil and stir through torn mint leaves. This dish is best served the same day.

Serves 4.

Crushed broad beans

Smacking with flavour, this can be used as a dip or tossed through pasta. Omit the parmesan and add chopped coriander and smear onto just-grilled chicken, fish or fried haloumi cheese.

INGREDIENTS
1kg broad beans, podded
half a garlic clove
2 good pinches of salt
50ml extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
freshly ground pepper
1 ½ tbsp grated parmesan

METHOD

Blanch the broad beans until just cooked. Refresh under cold water, drain and shell.

Crush the garlic and salt in a mortar and pestle to a smooth paste, then add the broad beans. Pound into a rough paste, adding the rest of the ingredients to taste.

Serves 2-4.